This two parts adventure posting will be my last bit from the Miri trip. Due to flight unavailability to return to KL in time, I had to spend another day in Miri. Not wanting to waste the day in the hotel swimming pool and die of boredom, my colleague and I decided to do some adventure. We caved Niah National Park, which is about one and a half hour drive from the city.

As I had anticipated, our journey started at 8.30am, two hours late from what we had planned due to hard clubbing the night before. Our first hour drive from Miri was towards Batu Niah, which is a small cowboy town down south. The idea to explore Niah was not in our original itinerary, hence we lacked proper attire and tools. I was lucky to have carried my police torchlight whenever I’m out of town hence I only have to buy sports shoes while my colleague had to buy shoes and torchlight (which later on ended up with disappointment ). I thought I could find a cheap RM4.90 rubber shoes that I can dispose after our trip but buying shoes was a challenge in this small town since the biggest size they have was only size six. I ended up buying an RM69.90 futsal shoes causing me an extra baggage back to KL. We also bought some Snickers bars as our source of energy and lots of water. Satisfied with our supplies, we continued driving for another 15 mins to Niah National Park.

The first that visitors must do is to check-in at the reception. Entrance fee is RM10 and you must register your personal details including the time you entered the park. I guess this is a safety procedure in order to ensure safe returns from the caves at an anticipated time before search and rescue can be executed. On average, most visitors would spend about 3 to 5 hours exploring the caves depending on how far they go. We spent five hours exploring Niah Caves and also visited Rumah Chang, an Iban longhouse on the way back.

If you noticed, I’ve been writing “caves” instead of “cave”. There are three main caves in the Niah archipelago namely, the Traders Cave, the Great Cave (consists of Padang or Large Chamber, Moon Cave, Burnt Cave) and the Painted Cave. I will not touch on archaeological facts of these caves. There’s already so many writings about it on the net and also on wiki.

The national park is equipped with basic facilities including chalets, dormitories and camping site for those who wish to spend a night in the national park. There’s also showers for day-trippers if they prefer to freshen up after hours of sweaty adventure. Visitors can also rent a torchlight from the reception for RM4 per piece (the 1st disappointment for my colleague).

After registering ourselves we descended to the jetty for a merely one minute boat ride across the Niah river. The boat operates from 9am to 5pm and passengers are charged RM1 single way. From 5pm to 7pm, the charge is RM1.50 and visitors can also arrange for special request if they need to cross the river outside of these hours.

At the other side of the river, stands the Niah Archeological Museum and more chalets. From this point onwards, is really the beginning of the tiring and sweaty adventure but in the end full of self-satisfaction.

The total distance from the museum to the painting cave (the last cave) is approx. 4.1 km per single trip. Now, multiply that by 2 on return plus an extra kilometer to Rumah Chang, the Iban longhouse, we had walked for almost 10km that day. Not bad you say? How about if I say that the caving part, you have to breath on mostly methane gas from the guano?

The expedition is supposed to be one big circle but because improvement works are currently ongoing to replace the aged raised planks to concrete platform, some parts of the trail are closed for construction. A bypass through Bukit Kasut, a knee deep muddy jungle track was not an option as we did not bring spare clothes to prepare ourselves to get dirty. We decided to take a longer walk via Rumah Chang, on the raised planks all the way to the caves.

Brisk walk through the lowland virgin forest is calming. There is no use of iPod when the sounds of insects, birds and monkeys form a melodic jungle orchestra, accompanying us on our little exploration.

The first cave we entered was the Traders Cave. The belian (Borneo ironwood) frames of abandoned hut is still standing strong. These were temporary shelters of early archaeologists and bird’s nests traders.

Traders cave is considered a rockhouse rather than a cave.

From Traders Cave, we continued our journey to the Great Cave. About 50 meters before we reached the West Mouth of the Great Cave, smell of methane gas from guano crept into our nose. Our first encounter was the archaeological dig, fenced and kept protected by Sarawak Museum. The dig is evidence of early human settlement believed to be 13,000 to 3,500 year ago. I asked the man guarding the site if we could enter the dig to take pictures but unfortunately no visitors are allowed to enter.

Posing infront of the West Mouth of the Great Cave.

There are signboards along the trail hence you won’t be lost in the cave if you follow them.

As I walked further, the cave darkens. Bats and swiftlets were flying above my head. Sound of wind breeze eeried my blinding vision, sending chill to my spine. I stopped, turned on my torchlight and looked around to make sure it’s safe to continue my journey.

Advancing further into the darkness, I saw other cavers ahead of me and bird’s nest harvesters erecting their bamboo poles to climb hundreds of meters high up the cave’s ceiling. It’s amazing to see these men, risking their lives harvesting those expensive bird’s nest. There was no high-tech gadgets assisting them. Merely long bamboo poles, rattans, ropes and carbide lamps. Some of them were shirtless, not at all bothered of bats or swiftlets droppings.

Along the way to the Padang (Large Chamber), sunlight beams down through the holes above the cave ceiling as if it was resurrecting the deads. I can’t describe how beautiful it was. One in particular is the Moon cave, which is part of the Great Cave.

continue at Part 2.